Goose Christmas Dinner

[from Lena Osborne's column in the Tulsa Daily World, Dec. 24, 1921]

  As far back as history takes us,
goose has been the meat for Christ-
mas dinner.  Gradually as time
changes all things, we and espe-
cially we of the middle-west and
south, have drifted away from this
delightful custom. ...
  Here is a Christmas dinner,
planned around goose as the princi-
ple part of the whole celebration.
           Oyster Cocktail
     Currant and Apple Dressing
             Roast Goose
           Mashed Potatoes
         Cauliflower in Sauce
           Cranberry Sauce
    Celery--Lettuce--Onion Salad
            Hot Mince Pie
 Coffee       Cheese       Crackers
                   Nuts
  There may be other vegetables that
may be used in place of the cauli-
flower.  However, it should be one
of the coarse vegetables, as turnips
cabbage, eggplant, onions, etc., and
it should be served in cream sauce
as it is not often that gravy is made
with the goose.  However, it may be.
  There is this caution in planning
the foods to serve with goose.  Goose
is a very greasy meat, and as much
mild acid should be served with it as
possible ....  For
that reason, is better to have one
vegetable in a heavy white sauce
than buttered.
           Oyster Cocktail.
        (Individual serving.)
     3 large or 5 small oysters.
     1 tablespoon of the sauce.
   1/2 lemon slice
  The sauce--Mix together, horse-
radish, tabasco sauce, catsup, salt,
cayenne and lemon juice.  These
may be used in proportions to suit
the taste.  One cup should flavor
from 6 to 8 glasses.  Put the half-
round of lemon on the side of the
glass, so it's handy if more acid is
liked.  For the one cup, about 4
tablespoons horseradish, to the 3/4-
cup of catsup is a good foundation
--the other seasonings being added
to suit.  Keep oysters on ice until
ready to serve, then before putting
in the cocktail (sherbet glasses may
be used) glasses, go over each oys-
ter carefully for bits of shell.
          The Goose.
  Buy a young goose, not over a
year old.  You can tell this by sev-
eral ways.  If purchased at the meat
market, the breast should be full
and plump with a white, smooth
skin.  Old birds have hairs on the
skin.  If the feet and bill are red
and hard, the bird is old.  It is said
of all the tough meats in the world,
to try to cook, it is an old goose.
If you should get an old one cook it
in boiling water, in a covered vessel
until it shows signs of the joints be-
coming tender, then begin the
roasting.
  Weigh the goose, then measure
one teaspoon of salt to the
pound.  Rub one-half this amount
on the inside of the bird.  Many
Jewish cooks also rub the inside
with garlic.  Fill with the dressing
and sew the skin together at the
crop and at the opening under the
breast bone with coarse thread.  Rub
the outside with the rest of the salt
dampened with lemon juice.  Place
in a roaster, cover, add one cup boil-
ing water and cook slowly.  It will
usually take from two to two and
one-half hours to cook goose.
 Apple, Bread and Currant Dressing.
  1 cup washed currants.
  1 cup diced, tart apple.
  2 cups chunked, toasted bread.
  Boiling water.
  Minced, crisp bacon.
  Cut three slices of fresh, sweet
bacon in tiny pieces, then cook crisp
in a skillet.  Put all the other in-
gredients with this, adding boiling
water to moisten.  This is a most ex-
cellent stuffing for goose; the ap-
ple and currants cutting, as we
might say, the strong flavor of the
goose fat.  However, there are good
cooks who always use the onion dressing
for goose.
          Cranberry Sauce.
  While cranberry jelly or mold will
do as well, there are good reasons
for serving the sauce. The coarse-
ness the skins of the cranberries
lend to the sauce, is an aid to diges-
tion, and we must admit this is quite
a heavy dinner.
    1 quart washed cranberries.
    1 cup water.
  1/2 teaspoon soda.
  Cook until the skins pop and the
berry is mashed.  The soda will cause
a greenish foam to rise.  This will
soon pass away.  Then pour over
three cups of sugar and boil up
once, then set aside to congeal.
            The Salad.
  Finely shredded head lettuce.
  Finely cut celery stalks.
  Minced onion.
  Vinegar (pure apple cider).
  Sugar.
  Salt.
  Mix the prepared lettuce, celery
and onion in a wooden bowl or gran-
ite crock.  Make a dressing of the
vinegar, sugar and salt to suit the
taste, then pour over the salad. Mix
throughly with two forks, then put
a press on top and let set for a few
minutes for the flavor to penetrate.
Pile this on salad plates and serve
with the dinner.  Getting just the
right amount of vinegar and sugar
in this had everything to do with its
delicious flavor.  It is a simple
salad--sort of old fashioned but it's
ideal for a dinner of this type.  One
of its redeeming features is, that it
is so easy to make.
  If instead of the cranberry sauce,
a jelly or butter of some sort is
served, then the orange and onion
could be served, and it's de-
licious too.  But with the cranberry,
the orange would make too much fruit.
  The cheese may be either served
with the hot mince pie or afterwards
with crackers.  A tiny bit of Roque-
fort with water crackers and the
cup of black coffee seem to relieve
that over-full feeling after a dinner
of this sort.  Plum pudding may
come in place of the mince pie.  In
fact, even a lighter desert than
either of these might be acceptable,
but with the ability we seem to have
on occasions of this sort for enjoy-
ing food as long as it is served,
either of the two had better be pre-
pared.

[note: "...we have drifted away from this delightful custom." In spite of this observation, enough people still ate goose at Christmas that the local grocerers advertised it, along with turkey, duck, and chicken, on this same page of the newspaper. (It was 35 cents a pound in one store, the same as duck; turkey was 50 cents, chicken 28 and 25 cents.)]


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